Heading to Scandinavia

Having ditched the kids, since we were already in Europe, we wanted to take advantage of the situation. We grabbed a flight to Copenhagen, and on landing and hooking up with our bus tour mates, we immediately headed to the world-famous Tivoli Gardens.

Opened in 1843, this amusement park and pleasure garden is one of the most popular in Europe and the 2^nd oldest amusement park in the world. The park was originally authorized by King Christian VIII when its founder told the King “when the people are amusing themselves, they do not think about politics.”  The Carlsberg Family (Carlsberg Beer) are the majority owners of the Gardens. The Danes say there is lots of documentation of visits by Walt Disney beginning as early as 1951. Interestingly Disneyland opened in 1955.

In addition to the other normal things (cathedral, historic buildings, etc.) we walked through the Freetown of Christiania. About 20 acres in central Copenhagen, this area was former barracks for a military base which was abandoned. With only a few on guard, squatters occupied many of the empty buildings, and the occupants claimed the area was no longer part of Denmark. Drugs were openly sold, and interactions with police were so tense that eventually even the police would not enter the area.

Today Danish laws are enforced in Christiania, with the exception that cannabis and hash are still openly sold from permanent booths. The residents still do not consider the area as part of either Copenhagen or even Denmark. We didn’t encounter any hostility on our stroll (other than to our nostrils) and ignored the advice of the concierge at the hotel to not take any photos.

We also learned that author Hans Christian Anderson was Danish. Born in Odense on April 2, 1805, he published no fewer than 3,381 works, translated into more than 125 different languages. On a bay in the Baltic Sea, we discovered the bronze Mermaid on an appropriate rock.

Our next stop was Stockholm, our only stop in Sweden. We got there via the Oresund Bridge, the longest road and rail bridge in Europe spanning nearly 10 miles. The capital of Sweden, Stockholm is set on 14 beautiful islands along the coast of the Baltic Sea – almost due west of St. Petersburg Russia. It is the most populous urban area in Scandinavia, with beautiful stone buildings to prove it. 

Our bus tour took us to the Blue Hall where the Nobel Prize banquets are held each year. Established by the Swedish chemist Alfred Nobel with the fortunes he made from discovering dynamite. Many believe that his focus on the Peace Prize was a result of compensating for the devastation his invention caused on the field of battle.

We visited the Vasa Galleon, a Swedish warship launched in 1628. Built at the order of King Gustavus Adolphus to overpower Poland, it was equipped with more cannon than any ship built to date. Being top-heavy with all these extra cannons, it sank on its maiden voyage and was completely enveloped in the mud in the bay. In 1991 it was found essentially intact since the mud acted as a cocoon. 

We not only got to gander at this impressive nearly 400-year-old ship in nearly pristine condition, we even got to board her and tour all the rooms below deck. We found the cabins that house both the officers and enlisted men. The galley and the mess hall let us see what life might have been like for a sailor in the 1600’s. There was nothing about this ship that wasn’t interesting – there were 5 levels of decking in the museum so you got the chance to see it up close and personal.

Our visits to Denmark and Sweden were awesome, but we had a lot more Scandinavia to explore. This sign makes me think of the ones in Utah – guns and beer – some things just go together!

Talk to you soon.

Amalfi Coast

Since we were not too far away, and really didn’t know if we would ever return, we hopped a train and headed to the Province of Salerno in Italy. We visited the Amalfi Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition to the fabulous rocky coastline and beautiful Mediterranean communities, the Amalfi Coast is also known for its lemon orchards and production of the well-known liqueur Limoncello.

We were lucky enough to have a private driver transport us from Naples to the Coast, and also take us on a day long guided tour. Starting in Sorento, we were rewarded with spectacular views of the coastline and nearby islands were interspersed with visits to the communities of Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and some others. We got a chance to walk the narrow streets of each of these towns and make our way down to the beach, as well as take in many of the historic churches and mansions there.

We got to stop for a very nice lunch on an outside deck above Amalfi, on the Mediterranean coast. The Woman opted for the usual pizza, and I opted for the usual glass of Italian red wine. The weather was perfect, the breeze was gentle and pleasant, and the food was wonderful.

We managed to catch one glorious Mediterranean sunset while we were on the Amalfi Coast. The deep red-orange glow was special and the weather clear. We’ll hope for some more, but if not, this one was sufficient.

On our way to Sorento we finally got to visit Mount Vesuvius and the city of Pompeii. In 79 AD, Vesuvius erupted and Pompeii

was completely covered by volcanic pumice and ash, burying everything as it stood, including all the residents who did not escape. It was our second chance to visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Because the burial of Pompeii was so sudden and complete, it contains some of the best-preserved ruins from the days shortly after Christ walked the Earth. The interest in the ruins has sparked some interesting and bizarre practices. Because locals were completely buried where they stood, archeologists have found their remains inside the cavity that formed around them as they perished. Historians have used those cavities as molds, filling them with plaster, and creating a mold of people and pets from 79 AD.

The homes and businesses stand as they looked at the time of the eruption. The beautifully tiled floors and patios remain, as well as the tiled and painted walls. You could get a feel for how the people lived, getting the sense of main family rooms, possible bedrooms, and internal patios. Even staircases to upper floors are still in place.

As in other Roman townsites that I have visited, the preponderance of phallic symbols was stunning. According to our guide, the use of such symbols as genitalia was an attempt to assure wealth and prosperity, success of crops, and perhaps even successful human reproduction.

We found several local restaurants near the central business district. Our guide told us that Romans back in those days were in the habit of buying prepared food from nearby chefs and either brining it to their home or dining at tables set up in the establishment. What you see here is the cooking counter with extended serving areas as well as multiple cooking holes where large pots and pans could be kept hot. Also, generally nearby was a brick oven assumed to have been used for bread and maybe even pizza.

We toured the Roman bathhouse as well as some administrative buildings. And of course, being from Nevada, when I heard they had discovered the Pompeii bordello, and that it was available to visit, I couldn’t pass it up. There wasn’t anything particularly unique about the building that housed the bordello, but the artwork was very interesting.

Pompeii was somewhere on the bucket list, and I am really happy we got to make it here. If not for Nick and Karen’s choice of our family trip, we might never have made it.

Talk to you soon.

Back to Italy - Venice and Rome

After our cruise ended, we headed to Venice Italy. I have been to Venice before, but nobody else in the group had ever been. The airport is on the mainland, so the only way to your hotel once you land in Venice is to take a speedboat. We had a private boat set up, and made our way through the canals to our hotel – in Venice, everything is awesome – even the Uber ride from the airport!

Almost the first thing we did after dropping our bags off was to head out looking for pizza. Pretty much every direction we walked found us both small and large local restaurants. We particularly wanted to be outside on such a nice day, and we didn’t really have to wait that long before we stumbled into a good-sized square with tables everywhere. We picked the one with the best view of the square, and had some of the best pizza ever. A glass of vino might have accompanied.

We did all the touristy things in Venice – toured the Doges Palace, walked St. Marks Square, toured St. Peter’s Basilica, and of course, walked into pretty much every church we happened to walk past. We got a private guided boat tour of the Grand Canal, as well as a bunch of the side canals, which gave us a good orientation so we could come back on foot to explore further.

After touring the Doges Palace, we got a unique opportunity to walk across the famous Bridge of Sighs and tour the ancient Roman prison. This bridge got its name because it connected the Doges Palace where judges held court to the prison, across the canal. When people were convicted by a judge, they were escorted immediately across the Bridge of Sighs and placed into their cell. Locals in the day claimed you could hear the sighing as the convicts crossed.

Of course, no trip to Venice could be considered complete unless you went on a gondola. Rather than stand in the long lines at the more popular tourist spots, we looked around until we found one off the beaten path, and it was great. In the background you can see we are about to pass under the Rialto Bridge, a walking bridge completely covered with two rows of enclosed shops – cool!

Nick had warned us about his plan to ask Valerie to marry him while he was in Venice. While we had hoped that he might pop the question on our romantic gondola ride, he actually wanted it to be a bit more private, without parents and siblings gawking. While we didn’t actually witness the deed, we soon learned she said “Yes”, so all was good.

While we would have liked some more time in Venice, we had to board the train to take us to Rome. While I, again, have used trains to travel in Europe before, none of the rest of us had. The experience was nice, and watching the Italian countryside roll by our windows was pleasant. Although we had to manage our own luggage on and off the train, it was great fun.

In Rome, we managed to do all the stuff you should do there. We visited the Roman Forum and saw all the ancient ruins that date back to before the time of Christ. We toured so many museums with Roman artifacts that it would make your head spin. But our most memorable times were the visits that we made to Roman ruins you could actually walk inside, as though you were there to watch the lions and gladiators go at it. The Coliseum was spectacular!

We went to the Pantheon, which because of its nearly continuous use since it was constructed shortly after Christ walked the earth, may be the best preserved of all ancient Roman buildings. While efforts to maintain it must be constant, there is really no evidence of structural changes to this building as a means of preserving it. It was just that well-built, I guess. The dates everywhere on the building and inside are of course all in Roman Numerals.

One of our treats was a pizza making class. We were taken to a special part of a local restaurant specializing in pizza, and the main chef was there to guide us. After a demonstration of the process, we all were challenged with making our own pizza. Once done making it, each of our creations was gently placed in the brick ovens, and we cooked them to just the recommended doneness.

After each of us hand made a pizza, we actually got to eat the exact pizza that we had made. And I have to admit, all 6 of us are really good cooks! While I can’t remember who of the 6 of us made this exact pizza, I can remember for certain that it didn’t last long in this condition. All 6 pizzas were totally devoured.

We visited the Vatican – an independent city housed in the center of Rome, that is actually not Italian land – it belongs to the Church. We visited the Sistine Chapel, and spent some time wondering at the ceiling, painted by Michelangelo in the early 1500’s. While you stand 50 feet below it, its scale is such that you feel like you are just in touching distance. We got special insight into the artist as well as the things that were going on at that time in Italy and the World, much of it depicted in the artwork.

We got to see where the Cardinals gather to elect a new Pope in the Chapel. We even got to see the stove where the ballots are burned after a vote – black smoke from the stovepipe indicating that no consensus had been reached, white smoke meaning a new Pope had been agreed upon. We even got to walk out on the balcony where the Pope speaks to the people amassed in St. Peter’s Square. It was pretty inspiring.

We even got a chance to brush shoulders – well almost – with the famous Swiss Guard who protect the Pope and Vatican City. As you can see, I am being reminded that photos of the Swiss Guard are strictly prohibited.

Our time together in the Netherlands and Italy being almost over, we had one last going away dinner, after which Nick, Val, Karen and Berto would be leaving us. While it was a sad time, it also capped a wonderful week and a half that we wouldn’t trade anything for. Of course, the Woman and I stayed in Rome. I guess the workin stiffs had to get back to work!

Talk to you soon.

Exploring more in Minnesnowda

Being in Fair country we couldn’t help but make it to the Dakota County Fair for an afternoon with Jenny and Lynn. We used to attend this when we lived in Eagan, which is in Dakota County. It is not nearly as big as the Minnesnowda State Fair, but it is local and fun.

We hit the pioneer village, machinery hill, and even visited the midway (carnival rides) so that Wyatt could get in a couple of rides – he was all smiles! But I personally think he liked the petting zoo the best. He got a cup of food to feed the goats and sheep – he loved it!

The Woman got an unexpected bonus. They had a butterfly enclosure that you could walk around in, but at the time the residents were mostly Monarchs. Monarchs are cool, but we see them all the time. In the afternoon they received a newly emerged group of Painted Ladies, which we had never identified in the wild before. It is always great to encounter something new!

And of course, being a county fair late in an election year, the politicians were everywhere! All the local DFL politicians were in one big booth, and all the Republican politicians were in another booth. I have to admit I was a bit surprised to find out what a big draw the Dakota County Fair was.

Although they gave tours when we lived here 25 years ago, we never managed to make it to the Wabasha Caves. So we paired up with my brother Mike and his wife, Bonnie, and checked it out. In the 1840’s a European immigrant discovered that the sandstone under the Wabasha Bluffs was nearly pure silica. Knowing the material would make excellent glass, he dug out the caves by hand, and at the same time, provided much of the glass needed for the construction explosion in the area.

By the early 1900’s, the intense need for glass diminished, and the caves began to be used to grow mushrooms. Later, the Land O Lakes company rented the caves to cure their newly developed dairy product – blue cheese. The caves would be used from time to time for special events, but mostly were used for agriculture.

In the Roaring 20’s, Josie and William Lehman opened the Wabasha Street Speakeasy as a restaurant and nightclub. Notable patrons included John Dillinger and Ma Barker. With the arrival of Prohibition, the underground and protected caves continued to operate. Now not only were the likes of Dillinger and Barker patrons, but the St. Paul Mayor, the St. Paul Police Chief and many other politicians and officials considered themselves guests.

Before ending the day, we headed to the top end of the High Bridge that connects central St. Paul with the West Side across the Mississippi. It was a short but very nice stroll with the backdrop of the St. Paul skyline from the best vantage point in town.

Talk to you soon.

Back to the Netherlands

We all think of the Rhine River as being in central Germany. But it actually flows into the North Sea, making its way through the Netherlands as it does. Our cruise through the Netherlands had us on the main channel of the Rhine at times. But because the Rhine delta as it nears the North Sea is immense, we were always on some branch of the Rhine.

We had a chance to visit Brussels on a day long bus excursion, which I jumped on. It turns out that whenever the Germans decided to wage war with the world, they had to plow through Belgium and the Netherlands to get at northern France and good ports nearer the English Channel. So, they were both pretty much devastated in both WWI and WWII. There are military cemeteries everywhere you turn, mostly British, Canadian or American occupants.

Flanders Field was a WWI battlefield where John McCrae, a Canadian Lieutenant Colonel, penned the infamous poem about the poppies. He originally wrote the poem on May 3, 1915 after presiding over the funeral of a fellow soldier who had died in the Second Battle of Ypres. But he was not happy with it, and he crumpled it up and threw it on the ground. Fellow soldiers who had heard him recite it retrieved it, and the rest is history.

We found the cathedral in the main square in Brussels. Originally built in 1519, it was not given cathedral status until 1962, which is unbelievable given how huge and beautiful it is. Like all the cathedrals we have visited anywhere in central Europe, we found the clam shell outside which signified the start of another leg of the Camino de Santiago. It brought back really strong memories.

Not far from the cathedral we found the Manneken Pis, which in Dutch means “Little Pissing Man”. This 1618 bronze two-foot-tall sculpture of a boy urinating into the fountain’s basin is the best-known symbol of both the sense of humor of the Belgium people, as well as their independence of mind. Probably due to both, Manneken Pis is dressed daily by locals with a new and very complete set of clothes – funny!

Remnants of the both WWI and WWII are part of everyday life in Belgium. We visited a trench warfare line where the Brits had tunneled under the German lines and planted a massive pile of explosives, which were later detonated to the dismay of the Germans. The Brits did this something like 29 times. Only 26 of them were successfully detonated – the other 3 are still buried somewhere, but nobody actually knows where. On a daily basis, farmers find unexploded armament in their fields, and local specialists go around and collect and dispose of them. Creepy!

There’s so much more I could say about the Netherlands and Belgium, but it was time to move onto Italy. The anticipation was killing us!

Talk to you soon.