We headed to Marfa because for years I had heard of the
strange, unexplained lights that appear each night. In 1883, resting on a bluff
8 miles East of town and looking toward the Chinati Mountains, a cowboy
reported seeing visible lights in the valley that came and went, and danced up
and down, left and right. Over the decades such reports continued, and apparently
nobody has been able to explain their cause. Watching after the sky went dark
we saw lights, sometimes only a couple, and other times 6 to 12. The lights
would appear for a while, then disappear, reappear, and then jump around. We
could tell that they weren’t car headlights, and their movement meant they weren’t
lit structures.
The town of just under 2,000 people is very quirky. The
lights attract some tourism, but also its remoteness is an attraction as well. It
is the Presidio County Seat, and its courthouse which was built in 1886 is the
tallest building in town by a long shot. There is a total of 183 hotel rooms in
town, not counting Air BnB accommodations, and enough small independently owned
restaurants to feed about that many people.
Marfa is just North of the Big Bend, that section of the Southeast
meandering Rio Grande that suddenly jogs back Northeast and makes a big bend to
head back Southeast. This creates the thumb in Western Texas that seems to jab
down into Mexico carving out just a bit more land for the US. We drove all
around the Big Bend area taking in the expansive views.
We looked for wildlife in the Big Bend. I had caught a
glimpse of the end of a tail of some mammal that was ringed. While I can’t be
certain, I believe it was a Ring-Tailed Cat that resides in Northern Mexico and
Southern Texas. We saw not just one, but an entire herd of Javelina eating the
succulent shrubs along the side of the road. We also got a good look at 8-10 Big
Horn Sheep also grazing on the rich prairie grasses of the area. We hadn’t seen
this much wildlife in one outing in quite a while.
As we are inclined to do, we hit some of the more
historically significant cemeteries in the area. When we saw the Disney film
Coco, it reinforced to us how the Mexican folk revere those that came before
them, and believe the dead even can visit the living, especially on the Day of
the Dead. For that reason, any cemetery that has Mexican residents are always
ornately and colorfully decorated, a sign of respect for one’s elders.
Even though she lived in the late 1800’s, I know that the
term was in use back then just as it is now. So, for the life of me, I just can’t
imagine why the young Minnie Brown would willingly step into this last name by
marrying this guy. I understand she would have been beyond the schoolroom
taunts she would have been subject to had she earned this illustrious name at
birth. But imagine introducing yourself as Minnie Outhouse, or worse yet,
Minnie Brown Outhouse – go figure!
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