Shenandoah National Park

After the creation of all the National Parks in the west, support was strong for establishing one in the east, particularly near the Nation’s capital. One problem was that much of the land in the newly designated National Parks in the west was already owned by the Federal government. Ho
wever, such large tracts of Federally owned land did not exist in the east. So, much like what happened in Cuyahoga Velley in Ohio much later on, the Federal government coerced the state governments to seize the land from its citizens utilizing eminent domain. While supporters pretty much justified that the ends justified the means, I am not sure the families who passed down these lands through several generations would agree.

The park is long and narrow, running from Front Royal VA in the north to Waynesboro VA in the south. Skyline Drive runs 110 miles down the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains, essentially the length of the Park. It was created by the CCC in the post-Depression era, and was intended to be a road where folk would venture out on a Sunday drive, hence the maximum 35 MPH speed limit. At the southern end of the Skyline Drive, the CCC era roadbed continues as the Blue Ridge Parkway – a slightly higher speed limit at 45, but very similar in roadway and views. The Blue Ridge Parkway travels another 470 miles to the Great Smoky National Park near Cherokee NC.

We drove the length of the Skyline Drive, stopping at many of the overlooks to get an outstanding view into the Shenandoah Valley. We also sought out many of the approximate 30 times that the Appalachian Trail crosses the Drive. The Woman was in her happy place, generally clicking off at least 2 miles more of the Appalachian Trail each time we visited.

The Shenandoah Valley saw some of the most Civil War activity, especially the campaigns led by Stonewall Jackson. We found Cedar Creek and Belle Grove National Historic Park. The battlefields here were key to the success of the Union. Because of the fertile land, the Shenandoah Valley had become the breadbasket of the east coast, and when the Civil War broke out, the food was no longer sent north to feed the east coast towns in New England – instead it fed the Confederate Army. Knowing this, Grant identified it as one of his highest priorities. Grant ordered General Philip Sheridan to scorch this fertile valley in order to cut off the Confederate Army’s primary food source.

Jost Hite, a German immigrant, settled in the Valley on portions of 140,000 acres as part of 16 families who were a part of a land grant. Belle Grove Plantation was built in 1797 by Major Isaac Hite and his wife Nelly – daughter of President James Madison – on land given to him by his father as a wedding present. We toured this surviving plantation where General Sheridan had established his headquarters in the fall of 1864. In the early hours on October 19, 1864, Confederate General Jubal Early launched a surprise attack on Sheridan, which ended up being a pivotal battle, but in favor of the Union.

Literally dozens of battlefields lie in the Shenandoah Valley. We attended a Ranger Program called “The 1862 or 1864 Valley Campaign in a Box.” Using ropes to depict rivers and roadways, and large wooden blocks to depict towns and buildings, the Ranger gave us a visual overview of where all the major battles occurred, and where they took place in relation to all the landmarks still standing. It was very interesting, and gave you a complete visual idea of where it all went down. We also got to see a grandfather clock actually owned by Confederate General Jubal Early when we toured the Plantation.

Before we ended our exploration, we managed to hit both the lowest point as well as the highest point along the Skyline Drive. I have to admit, the views were better at 3,680 feet!

Talk to you soon.