While not endemic to the
Galapagos, we did get to see a number of American Oystercatchers. We had not
had a chance to ever spot these before, so it was one for the bird list for us.
The eyes on these guys are totally spooky!
On Balta we headed for
the high ground to find the Galapagos Tortoise. I assumed we were going to see
them in a managed persevere – in my parlance, as zoo. But when we arrived, we
were pleasantly surprised. The landowners in this area were farmers, but have
learned that they can make more money allowing their land to be a home for the Tortoise,
and charging tourists a modest fee to access their land.
The Galapagos Tortoise
roam wild at this elevation, well at least the males do. Females actually
descend to the ocean in order to lay their eggs and raise their young. The males
hang at high elevations where food is abundant. Galapagos Tortoise live well
beyond 100 years in general, with the oldest documented being a bit over 170
years. They are massive, the largest weighing over 900 pounds. They don’t move
quickly, but maybe that is the key to their longevity.
In the middle of the
Islands we visited Post Office Bay. Allegedly, this may be the oldest post
office in the world – supposedly in operation since the early 1700’s. Early
Europeans plied these waters looking for the prolific whales that came here,
taking advantage of the waters rich with food. They placed a barrel here with
written instructions that whalers could place letters there, and that others
visiting the barrel, if they would be going to the area where a letter was addressed,
would take the letter and hand deliver it when they got to their destination.
No postage is needed – delivery is all on the honor system.
Interestingly this played
a role in the War of 1812. In 1813 the US Frigate Essex anchored in Post Office
Bay and Captain David Porter scoured the contents of the barrel. The letters
gave him essentially a list of British whaling vessels in the area, allowing
Porter to capture a considerable number of British assets. Sadly, Porter also
released 4 domestic goats on the island, which are still creating the need to
eradicate their destructive influence still today.
Tomorrow we head back to
the mainland to visit Peru – can’t wait!
Talk to you soon.
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