We paid a visit to Hells Gate. A very narrow gorge along the
Fraser River, Simon Fraser speaks of it in his journals from the 1808
exploration. The water is so violent here that Fraser could not pass by water –
with the help of locals he scaled the sheer cliffs along paths and hanging
ladders built by the ancients. Hope, being just south of Hells Gate, ended up
being the end point of the navigable portion of the Fraser for commercial
steamers and paddle wheelers in the 1800’s.
We took the aerial tram down to the waters edge. A
pedestrian bridge now allows folk a closer look at the maelstrom. Apparently in
the early 1900’s when the Canada Pacific Railway blasted its way through here,
they just dropped all the blasting debris in the river. That year the
government recorded an 80% drop in the salmon population down river.
The government required CPR to fix the issue, and in the
1930’s, the CPR built a massive fish ladder to allow the salmon to bypass the
hazard they had inadvertently created. Today the salmon population has
essentially recovered. Hells Gate is worth a visit, in part because much of the
area looks exactly like it would have been found by Simon Fraser.
We headed further North to the small town of Lytton. In Lytton
you can find the confluence of the Thompson and Fraser rivers. The Fraser is a
brown, muddy river at this point. The Thompson is clear due to its rocky bed.
Where the two meet, there is a distinct line separating the muddy Fraser from
the clear Thompson. Sadly, the Fraser wins.
Of course, the waterfalls continue. It seems like you just
pass a waterfall every few minutes as you drive around British Columbia, not that
either the Woman or I am complaining about that.
Talk to you soon!
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