Great Smoky Mountain Railway

Built during the rail boom in the mid-1800’s, the GSMR ran some 160 miles along the Nantahala River connecting Murphy with Asheville. It was built almost entirely using convict labor. Being progressive at the time, both male and female convicts were involved in the construction of the railroad. Of course, the males swung the pick axes, and the females cooked and did laundry.

Our car was a turn of the century first class lounge car, complete with a full bar. Since we were one county over from Graham, we were able to take advantage of the only Carolina Shine car on the train. In the Carolina Shine car, samples of all the flavors of the local Carolina Shine moonshine are served to the patrons. The first 4 shots were served as we were getting ready to depart the station, just to get the buzz going early I guess. The strawberry shine was the best of the lot.

Along the Nantahala River, we stopped at the NOC – the Nantahala Outdoor Center. Primarily a canoeing based facility, the Center was in the process of holding the 2015 ICF Junior & U23 Whitewater Canoeing World Championships. The course looked pretty challenging. The Woman’s good friend, Melvin Swallow, competes internationally in these kind of events – adult level rather than junior – but this course looked like it would have had the adults breathing a bit heavy as well.

We learned that the largest number of passengers on the GSMR was Americans – no big surprise I guess. But the 2^nd largest was Brits, followed by Germans and French. We were told that Europeans simply love forests. We were told they visit the Great Smoky Mountain National Park in droves because there are more trees within the National Park borders than there are in all of Europe. I can’t confirm that statistic, but since it was being told to us by a Ranger, I have to assume it is accurate. A representative of the US Government wouldn’t say something that wasn’t true would they, that is of course unless they are elected.

After the train we walked around town a bit. So, is this sign making a statement about the local school system in the city of Bryson City, North Carolina?

Actually it is not. Apparently back in 1944 when the TVA displaced those thousands of American families, they made a promise to the townsfolk of Fontana. When the TVA built the Fontana Dam to dam up the Little Tennessee River, it flooded the town of Fontana where families had lived for generations. The US Government promised the displaced families that they would build a road into the un-flooded cemeteries so that the displaced families could still visit their dead.

The road was built – well at least half-way built. There is a gorgeous 1,275 foot long stone tunnel built through the mountain in the mid-1940’s to route this promised highway through. However, the original funding then ran out – about 300 yards past the end of this fabulous tunnel – and the Government never appropriated the additional funds needed to complete the road, despite the promise that was made. Somehow it seems like a promise should be a promise.

The betrayed locals refer to this highway as the “Road to nowhere” – a different one than Sarah Palin talked about. There are billboards and graffiti accusing the Government of betrayal, lying, and all kinds of treachery. No wonder they still sport the Confederate flag down here.

While sitting in the Carolina Shine car along with 10 other guests for four hours, we got to know everyone pretty well. The folk from Georgia mentioned that they had been to a remote area called Catalooche where there were lots of Elk. It turned out that Catalooche Valley is within the National Park boundaries, just on the far eastern side. So we headed there on our way out of the Park.

A 10 mile narrow snakelike road, 3 miles of which is gravel and essentially one lane, takes you over the pass and into the valley that lies along the Catalooche Creek. There were trailheads everywhere and even a nice, but small, campground. Like in Cades Cove, many of the old homesteads still remain in the area under the care of the National Park Service.

It was raining a bit so we weren’t sure if we would see any wildlife. But we were rewarded with a whole field full of wild turkey that were fun to watch scamper around. And sure enough, as we got to the end of the road two huge elk were nibbling on the vast meadow, undaunted even in the least by the rain. It was well worth the drive, and with all the trail heads we saw, we hope to return.

Saying our last good byes to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, it was finally time to move on. But on our way out of the Park, we spotted what has come to be a familiar sight. We have been to Stonehenge in England. We have been to Carhenge in Texas. Now we have finally been to Canoehenge in North Carolina!

Talk to you soon!