Thursday, September 24, 2015

Northeastern Arkansas

On advice from Nick and Val we ventured to Bella Vista Arkansas. They had been here a couple weeks ago to visit Val’s grandparents who live here, and had some recommendations for us to check out. Apparently Bella Vista set out to be a golfing retirement community, and has been pretty successful at it, although the recent dark times have been a challenge for them as for others. Bella Vista is in the northeastern corner of Arkansas, just miles from both Missouri and Oklahoma.

Nearby Bentonville was and is the home of Walmart. In 1950 Sam Walton bought an existing five and dime store in downtown Bentonville. Opening on May 9 1950 with a one day “remodeling sale” he found it to his liking – none the least of which was due to the former owner being able to register only $72,000 in sales, and Sam in his first year was able to register over $105,000. At the time, he was a Ben Franklin franchise. It’s interesting to think that what he learned in being a Ben Franklin franchisee eventually created the largest retail company in the world, and yet Ben Franklin Company itself has long since bit the dust. His original store, at least the front, is still across the street from the main town square.

The old store façade is now the front for the Walmart Museum, which chronicles the birth and growth of the conglomerate, and memorializes its founder. I have to admit I always had a poor personal opinion of the Company, viewing them as viscously working to put their competitors out of business with loss pricing, and then raising prices when all the competitors were gone. I saw them as destroying the fabric of smaller communities. Sam’s mission seems a bit more worthy as it is cast in the Museum. Since early on he had documented his mission as to create a way for average Americans to be able to stretch their dollars, buy more, and therefor improve their standards of living. Sounds nicer than my perspective.

Sam’s original office with all its furnishings was great fun. The statistics were staggering, and all the Companies that were spawned – Walmart Financial, Walmart Broadcasting, Walmart Logistics – pretty much any kind of supporting service you might need to run a multi-location retail establishment with thousands of employees and customers is now a separate company under the Walmart umbrella. And most – maybe all for all I know – have a headquarters building in Bentonville.

When stopped for lunch at a Thai restaurant downtown one day, it seemed like all the other folk there were Walmart executives. We overheard all kinds of discussions about employee training, livable wage, trucking, you name it. From what I can tell, if you live in Bentonville you can’t help but be immersed into the world of Walmart.

We visited the Bluff Dwellers Cavern just across the border in Noel Missouri, maybe 20 miles North of Bella Vista. Privately owned attractions are pretty common in this part of the world, and Bluff Dwellers Cavern is one of them. Discovered in 1925 by Arthur Browning on land he owned, the family has given visitors private tours since its inception. Through archeological work Browning was able to prove that the cavern exterior has been occupied for over 12,000 years.

I mentioned that the Woman had some disappointment at Mammoth Cave. While it was immense and really interesting, it was a dry cave, capped by a rock layer that prevented water from seeping in. Because of that there are no stalactites or stalagmites that she associates in her mind with a “beautiful” cave. Well, she got her fix here. The cave system here is very wet, alive and growing. While not the biggest formations we have ever seen, the variety and uniqueness made our visit enjoyable.

A couple of the highlights of the cave really excited us:

·         Bats live in this cave, just like they do in Mammoth. However, we saw no bats in Mammoth, and we no sooner entered Bluff Dwellers Cavern and there were some hanging from the ceiling.

·         They had a small but great museum of artifacts. Crystals and geodes were numerous and some were very unique. Pictures of the early cavern buildings, tour groups and family members were fun to look at. However, the coolest item in the museum was a petrified bird’s nest, complete with petrified eggs.

·         Although most never see it, the caves are rampant with wildlife. For some reason the day we were there the common cave salamanders were out and about. They are salmon in color, and the ones we saw were 4-5 inches long. I bet we saw dozen of them.

The Cavern is still a family business, today run by the grandchildren of Arthur Browning who discovered it. Until recently it was run by his daughter. However, she gave her last tour at the tour guide at the age of 87 when her grandkids encouraged here to retire.

We sauntered down to Fayetteville and drove around the campus of the University of Arkansas. It seemed like a pleasant campus, but the vicious Razorback mascot symbols everywhere became somewhat overwhelming. We also visited the Crystal Bridges Museum of Art. This is a spectacular art museum, both for its unique architecture and the quality of its collection. The Museum is sponsored by Walmart (of course) so admission is free to all. We were surprised to see original works of Homer Winslow, Georgia O’Keeffe, Gilbert Stuart, Norman Rockwell, James Whistler, Pablo Picasso and so much more.

Another bonus – a significant collection of Andy Warhol’s work was currently in residence at Crystal Bridges. While I always thought of Warhol as more current, he was born in 1928 and died in 1987. He is probably best known for his work done in the 1960’s. We really enjoyed this exhibit because not only could we relate to some of the actual images. It was just interesting to see a more comprehensive exhibit of his work. This museum is definitely worth a visit.

When surfing the web for tourism ideas I discovered that the first home the Bill and Hillary Clinton lived in as newlyweds was here. Apparently Bill had asked Hillary to marry him on at least one occasion and she had declined. When he got his professorship at the UA law school he asked her to move there. She had no interest in moving to Arkansas but did visit him there. On one visit, she saw a cute very east coast looking brick home just a block or so from the law building, and commented on it. Apparently Bill took that signal, bought the home and used it to lure her not only to marry him, but to move to Fayetteville, where she became a law professor as well. They were married in the living room of this home.

We got a little bonus when we were there. We learned that all the Arkansas based Clinton historical sites had gotten together and created a passport that you could get stamped when you visited. On other trips we had visited his boyhood home in Hope, his presidential library in Little Rock, his high school in Hot Springs, so it turned out that by visiting this site, we had completed our Arkansas “Billgrimage”! The kind docent there took pity on us, since we visited those sites before the passport was developed, and awarded us the William Jefferson Clinton pins that go along with completing the Billgrimage.

We saw the aqua colored tile that Bill had personally laid in front of the fireplace – it looked like he did a really nice job. Hillary would later comment that of course it should look nice, when you take a weekend project and make it last 6 months. We also learned that the Clintons were not the first notable people to own this home. Two of the biggest processed chicken distributors in the US happened to hail from this part of Arkansas, the Tyson family and the Swanson family. The founder of Swanson foods used to own the Clinton home, and used to experiment with recipes in its modest kitchen. Allegedly the recipe for the Swanson chicken pot pie was developed in this very house.

Having completed our Arkansas exploration of Slick and president elect Hilary, it was time to move on.

Talk to you soon!

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