Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Bay area gems

We continue to be stunned by all the lesser known things we have missed in our prior visits to the bay area. We headed to the Charles Schulz Museum in Santa Rosa. What we mostly remember the holiday TV specials but thanks to the Museum we now know so much more about perhaps the greatest American cartoonist.

It turns out that Schulz was born in our home town of St. Paul, Minnesota. He even graduated from Central High School, the same high school my brother Mike graduated from. His first job as a cartoonist was for the St. Paul Pioneer Press. Sadly the Press would not publish his work on the comic page as he asked, rather they relegated his work to the Women’s’ section of the paper. They also refused request to expand his strip from the current 3 panels to 4. So he quit, which probably solidified his future.

His greatest work flowed after his move to Santa Rosa. We learned that at the peak of his career he was the fifth highest income earner of any kind of entertainer – actors, bands, professional athletes, etc. Evidence of his philanthropy is all over the town. Next to the museum is the indoor ice arena he built for the city. He never lost his love for hockey, and you could see its influence in his work with Snoopy and Woodstock playing the game on top of a frozen solid birdbath.

We strolled into the arena and discovered the Warm Puppy Café. The table where Schulz had breakfast every morning still welcomes guests.

We enjoyed the museum far more than we thought. On top of great videos that really connect you with the man himself were actual scribbles of some of his earliest Peanuts strips. It was interesting to see how the style changed over time – in his early strips, Snoopy walked on all fours like any other dog. In the courtyard we saw Charlie Brown’s famous kite eating tree. But my favorite was the infamous frozen bird bath, with a very unique hologram of Snoopy and Woodstock playing hockey. The 3 dimensional effects were pretty awesome!

While checking things out in Sonoma we visited the last on our journey of the 21 missions built by the Spanish. Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma was founded July 4, 1823 by Father Jose Altimira. It was named for Saint Francis Solanus, the patron saint of most of South America.

The current mission building dates back to 1840 when the original chapel was expanded. The ranger told us that this is the oldest original building along the El Camino Real as it was apparently spared some of the major earthquake damage others sustained along the way. He also told us that while the Camino Real was used by locals and the Spanish over time, it wasn’t an established and maintained road as we had come to believe. It was really more just a heavily used trail.
 
On our way to our next gem, Point Reyes National Seashore, we drove by Skywalker Ranch. George Lucas lives in the hills between Santa Rosa and Point Reyes. While it is not open to the public, I wanted to see how he lived and whether there was any evidence of his legend. While we had a good look at his ample home, there were no Darths or Yodas anywhere to be seen.

We visited another great lighthouse at Point Reyes. Again our luck with schedules and weather are excellent. We got to the Seashore shortly after the every 20 minute shuttles commenced. As we moved from point to point within the Park we had a bus show up with plenty of room. Drivers told us that by around Noon there would likely be lines for the shuttles – apparently Californians don’t do mornings.

We headed down to the 1870 era lighthouse. They warn you that you will be walking down 308 stairs to get to the light. What they don’t tell you is that there are a couple of extremely long sections of ramps that at least equal the elevation change covered by the steps. So they say “You will do 308 steps if you choose to go.” But what they choose not to say is “You will do an equivalent of 616 steps if you choose to go.” I think for some that would make a difference.

We were a bit surprised there were naturalist docents at the lighthouse. It turns out we were here at the height of the whale migration season. At first we didn’t think we could see any whales passing by. With encouragement from the docents that whales passing were plentiful, we started spotting the spouts identifying whales surfacing for air. After seeing our first, we saw dozens of them, many of which were so close to the surface that we could see the shadows as well as a couple of flukes.

They had an overlook to a beach near the historic lifesaving station where California sea lions loved to hang out. The sounds of their bellowing and barking were so loud that we could hear them all along our half mile walk out to chimney rock point. At the visitor center there were actually a couple sea lions within feet of us. These creatures are massive, easily twice my weight or more. I am not sure but I think this one may have been hit by the ugly stick!

What is now the bulk of the land mass of Point Reyes National Seashore was once owned by the San Francisco law firm Shaffer, Shaffer, Park and Heydenfeldt. In the mid-1800’s they split up the 50,000 acres they had accumulated into 26 parcels and leased grazing space to immigrant families for dairy herds. The area was so productive that it not only filled all the dairy needs of San Francisco but the entire bay area reaching quite a bit north. To simplify keeping track each farm was given a letter name. After the law firm dissolved the families bought their “alphabet farms”. When the National Seashore was established the families all sold their farms to the National Park Service, and now lease them back on a hundred year lease for a hundred dollars.

Napa, Sonoma and lesser hailed wine growing areas line the coast here. We stopped at a local craft creamery and picked up some Point Reyes Blue Cheese. All the cheese made in this creamery is from milk off one or more of the alphabet ranches. With that and our other picnic fixings in hand we headed to one of the smaller vineyards. With the day again turning glorious it was picnic time next to the grape vines with Point Reyes Blue and a fresh bottle of cabernet. What a day!

Talk to you soon!

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